Unresponsive Throttle or Wrong Throttle? – GV250 EFi
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Bike Model = : GV250 EFI
Re Upload cause it was marked as spam
Hi,
I’m having issues with my Hyosung GV250 EFI throttle. When taking off from stops, I’ll twist the throttle and there’s nothing for a few seconds, then it revs up, or I’ll have to pump the clutch a few times. While underway, the bike tends to jolt a bit. I could have the throttle fully open and seconds later I accelerate. When replacing it as of today, the throttle cable that was present in the bike looked nothing like the OEM cable I bought, here.
I’m guessing this isn’t stock and it only connected to one of the two throttle bodies. Google says that since this is an EFI, the other throttle body automatically opens without needing a line. If that’s the case, why did the OEM one come with two connectors. But just to make sure, I connected up both. It sort of worked but with everything linked, it left both throttle bodies open and the throttle unable to be twisted. Any suggestions?
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GV250 EFi uses two cables at the bodies, so you may wish to talk to the seller that he may have sent a 650 cable by accident ?
This below is the real GV250 cable i removed myself.
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GV250 EFi uses two cables at the bodies, so you may wish to talk to the seller that he may have sent a 650 cable by accident ? This below is the real GV250 cable i removed myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257417684499
seller confirmed I have the right cable. It may be the case the I’ve routed it wrong. I’ll try again and add pictures of how I route it.
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GV250 EFi uses two cables at the bodies, so you may wish to talk to the seller that he may have sent a 650 cable by accident ? This below is the real GV250 cable i removed myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257417684499
seller confirmed I have the right cable. It may be the case the I’ve routed it wrong. I’ll try again and add pictures of how I route it.
No problem but you must have two cables opening the front and rear cylinders then it becomes ONE at the throttle grip (2-in-to-1) style cable.
You got this!
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GV250 EFi uses two cables at the bodies, so you may wish to talk to the seller that he may have sent a 650 cable by accident ? This below is the real GV250 cable i removed myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257417684499
seller confirmed I have the right cable. It may be the case the I’ve routed it wrong. I’ll try again and add pictures of how I route it.
No problem but you must have two cables opening the front and rear cylinders then it becomes ONE at the throttle grip (2-in-to-1) style cable. You got this!
Did it! The cables routed properly and the bike actually goes over 52mph. Who would’ve thought I’d been running this thing on a single cylinder for months now. I’ve thrown so many parts at this bike and I can’t believe it was just that. Well, thank you for your help. I’ll be in this forum again when something else goes wrong.
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GV250 EFi uses two cables at the bodies, so you may wish to talk to the seller that he may have sent a 650 cable by accident ? This below is the real GV250 cable i removed myself. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257417684499
seller confirmed I have the right cable. It may be the case the I’ve routed it wrong. I’ll try again and add pictures of how I route it.
No problem but you must have two cables opening the front and rear cylinders then it becomes ONE at the throttle grip (2-in-to-1) style cable. You got this!
Throttle issues are back 🙁 It was gone for about 2 or 3 rides. Now, sometimes the bike will buck at low speeds, no throttle response when coming away from a stop, or it won’t go past 52mph regardless of gear. FI light turns on occasionally but then turns back off. I’m thinking it’s the TPS but I have no way of accessing it.
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Download the service manual on this forum , and flick the kill switch red button 3-5x quick as soon as you turn on the key.
The manual mentions if you get sequence flashing red light, you must count them.
Eg. 10 flashes _ pause_5 flashes_ pause_6flashes = Code was 10-5-6 , the ECU will repeat itself to make sure you got it or if 2x parts have issues like a Lambda Sensor and Clutch Switch , then you will get 2 separate codes (example)
As the FI light comes on sometimes, it is also a good idea to strip down the bike and clean every connector you can find with contact cleaner
When you get to the ECU ==> Disconnect it and hide it far away for now, then ONLY clean the ECU connector plug carefully with contact cleaner.
let the bike dry out its harness from the contact cleaner – don’t clean the ECU with any liquids.
If the ECU is dirty, only use compressed air to blow the pins clean.
Compressed air also helps blow a lot of gremlins in under the airbox trying to invade your plugs.
I say do this because it goes a long way to improve signals to the ECU, your bike may jerk due to signal loses (momentarily) which the ECU gets stuck on what to do next OR you genuinely have a fault somewhere (usually means replacing the particular part if cleaning doesn’t solve it)
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