Ticking from engine – GT125P 2019
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Bike Model = : GT125P 2019
Hey folks,
I have a 2019 GT125P (black engine, carby). Unmolested aside from cosmetic changes, Blackwidow pipes and a Max Torque can. No engine work has been done, so completely stock in that aspect. Pic attached for reference.
It’s suffering with a ticking from somewhere that follows RPM. At first, I thought it was coming from the tank (as that’s where it’s loudest) and my suspect was the fuel pump. Had my more mechanically inclined brother have a listen and he’s certain that it’s the valves on both the front and rear cylinder.
I’m inclined to believe it could be valve clearances because while they have been done in my ownership but they’re about 2000 miles overdue (didn’t realise recommended interval is every 4k lol). Engine starts out occasionally by ticking really hard from the front cylinder from cold, goes away/quietens down after a minute of idle. The tick is constant and follows RPM. I haven’t noticed any performance losses since I first noticed it on Monday this week.
I don’t think it’s the cam chain tensioners as I’ve had a listen with a screwdriver and they sound the exact same, just engine noise. Marcel humoured my silly questions on FB and mentioned my clutch; I have checked that too. Basket looks okay, as do springs and individual plates. No change in sound when letting the clutch go/pulling it in.
I’m curious to know what other people think. I’m hesitant to set the valve clearances as I don’t trust myself, so it’ll be going to a garage if it needs that, but I’m happy to check them (on the front, can’t get tank off reliably where I am). That being said, I know what I’m doing with a spanner and a screwdriver so if it’s not a big job (other than clearances) I can probably do it myself.
'19 Carby Hyosung GT125P
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Hmm, if you don’t mind at all, have a listen one more time and with an auxilary cup tank to drip feed fuel to the fuel pump, as we need the big tank out of the way.
Go around the bike as much as you can and get your ear as close as possible to all areas of the engine, find the location where it is making the most of these noises and 1 last picture with your finger showing where the noise is the loudest ?
It’s a good thing the clutch plates and springs are OK.  Sometimes it can be the thrust bearing that sits inside the front cover of the clutch plates, it spins nonstop even in neutral, so you want to be sure the needle bearing is OK. Get a VERNIER caliper, measure thickness of your plates (if the engine clutch cover is apart, the manual mentions to check thickness of the friction plates before deciding a pro-active change before last minute issues in the future, your gearbox will love you for it.
In regards to valve clearances, you could get a feeler-gauge , open the valve tops off on a cold morning, before it even starts , follow the service manual to spin the crank a few times then place the feeler gauge under the cam lobes to get clearance values , feel free to report them here , at least you will know yourself some hard numbers before it needs stripping down to change the shim-tappets
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Hi Marcel,
It’s in with the mechanic now and it’s the cam chain, just a bit loose. Says valves are ok and not the source of the tick.
Would this be a job for a new CCT? If so can you send me a link to a decent set of automatic tensioners?
'19 Carby Hyosung GT125P
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Hi Marcel, It’s in with the mechanic now and it’s the cam chain, just a bit loose. Says valves are ok and not the source of the tick. Would this be a job for a new CCT? If so can you send me a link to a decent set of automatic tensioners?
Check ebay for those automatic tensioners , I don’t know if i have a cam chain for it but i am not sure. If its on ebay UK, it should be good to go! – Some tensioners are stripped which look mechanically OK and retract fine but i can’t tell you if they rattle or not as the source engines have bottom end issues  (otherwise i’d rather sell the complete engines intact normally) – They are cheap enough that he can compare one or the other,  otherwise if he says the Auto CCT is fine and not making a sound, then you should be OK  , if it does make a sound then yes replace it.
Though , keep an eye on this dark shop as i intend to stock new ones soon (need to buy loads to stock up first as i know they will go quick here and riders abroad)
Get valve clearance numbers = Its a must.  Its for your peace of mind too.
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Hi Marcel, It’s in with the mechanic now and it’s the cam chain, just a bit loose. Says valves are ok and not the source of the tick. Would this be a job for a new CCT? If so can you send me a link to a decent set of automatic tensioners?
Check ebay for those automatic tensioners , I don’t know if i have a cam chain for it but i am not sure. If its on ebay UK, it should be good to go! – Some tensioners are stripped which look mechanically OK and retract fine but i can’t tell you if they rattle or not as the source engines have bottom end issues (otherwise i’d rather sell the complete engines intact normally) – They are cheap enough that he can compare one or the other, otherwise if he says the Auto CCT is fine and not making a sound, then you should be OK , if it does make a sound then yes replace it. Though , keep an eye on this dark shop as i intend to stock new ones soon (need to buy loads to stock up first as i know they will go quick here and riders abroad) Get valve clearance numbers = Its a must. Its for your peace of mind too.
Beauty. I’ll have a look.
Clearances were slap bang in the middle of spec, mechanic didn’t tell me what they were (forgot to ask!) but he assured me they’re fine. I think front intake was 0.13, didn’t mention clearances on any others.
He said my rear cam chain is loose, showed me too. Said that’s likely the source of the ticking and it’s probably a tensioner problem.
I dunno. I’ll strip it off tomorrow and test it.
'19 Carby Hyosung GT125P
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