Anyone know where I can get a new one of these?
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 I am about ready to quit riding hyosung, so I hope someone can help. the bike has 9000 miles and is falling apart like a rice cracker.so I’ve been having starter problems, low and behold: the starter gear self destructed somehow
and as I was changing the oil, this tappet came out, wtf does this even go to XD no I’m afraid to open the engine.
can anyone help me find these or ease my pain on these problems?
Any help is appreciated,
Briggs
If I give you advice, either follow with a cautious second opinion or call me an idiot, either is fine.
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I have the starting clutch system in stock and i can remove it from the donor bike next week to ship over to you, just click “contact” at the bottom of the site and send us your address for shipping quotes and any used parts you want.
The teeth broke off because of either
- Engine is hydrolocking (fuel is leaking in to cylinders!)
- Starter Motor too tired (replace it)
- Starter Motor Relay (replace it , just for a peace of mind) , weak ones or bad ones will make the engine crank much slower.
I’ve had a hyosung that lasted 50,000 miles before i went to a different Hyosung , but it was more like “me being OCD” and overzelously maintaining the bike (What she wants, she gets right away lol, i don’t want till later to find problems or i just upgrade certain bits there and there) . I am digressing….
2. Fuel Leaks
Looks like you will need to rebuild the carbs (if its a carb) (as 2008/2009 is the “switch over year for carb to EFi)   and make sure the floats are set at the correct height too and they don’t leak out.  (A full carb rebuild kit is must)— Replace fuel tap (if it says “OFF” on the GV tank, disconnect the hose and see if fuel comes out)  —- do this tank away from the bike! (fire hazard & fuel )
— Replace vacumm pump. It is a japanese Mikuni type but …. “weather & age of years” can make the rubbers brittle inside , so instead of trying to rebuild the pump, easier to replace it with a new one and it should be the “last defence” from shooting fuel towards the carbs when bike is fully turned off
IF it is EFi system , actually , it’s all carby , i seen the pictures above ^ – It’s a carb edition.   So ignore EFi references above ^
The picture of you holding a part in your hand belongs to the gearbox , did you drain oil from the wrong plug then ?
Check this out …
[Tutorial] How to Change Oil & Filter on Hyosung GV + GT125/250 +R
I really hope you put it back where it normally is if you drained oil via the wrong plug  (Korea could have made the 2 plugs under the bike further apart but engineers did what they had to do i guess!)
Usually a triangle plate with a plug under the bike means oil drain, as there would be a sieve/strainer hiding behind it – Not all brands like this anyway,
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Give it to me straight doc, is it fixable?
what could go wrong after driving it without that part of the transmission like an idiot?
and can I get the parts I need from you guys?
at this point is it possible to just get a new carb/ pump or convert it to efi?
my specialty is in electronics anyway.
If I give you advice, either follow with a cautious second opinion or call me an idiot, either is fine.
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Give it to me straight doc, is it fixable?
Yes sir. It’s not dead yet.
Just remember to put where you find that tip and spring under the bike and carefully rise the bike (jack it up) and check gearbox works
Spin the wheel in neutral then select 1st gear while holding clutch, then try to spin wheel?
Try neutral again , and 2-5th gear to make sure gearbox is OK. As that element with a spring is for gearbox.As for the flywheel. You need to pull the flywheel off (Can get a puller tool for you if need be & ship it) , and also will send “used but complete sprag” clutch system as
I will have the kit (the sprocket & the crucial sprag-one-way bearing unit), i know its somewhere as we just had a donor bike to salvage parts from , so being weekend of rest, i will wait till next week to get it together!If interested , send us an email with exact parts list.
If i am honest , EFi has wayyyyyyy more electronics and more parts to change and the front cylinder head needs a special hole bored in to fit a korea ET sensor in to it.
You have a carby system that’s easier to get it going on road!
If you still have the twin carbs = rebuild it with a repair kit and fresh jets , and ultrasonic clean it, it really works wonders as there would be nothing blocking air and fuel mix in the carb body , even new slides are sold on this shop, i have it all.
Fuel Pump is not a bad idea to replace!
Fuel Tap is not a bad idea to replace either 🙂
out with the old & in with the repair kits / new parts , so to speak.
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By looking at this drain bolt, is there anything else I should be aware of?I see chunks of the flywheel sprocket!
And generally clutch metal shavings, i’d open the clutch cover and make sure all looks well, we do have a clutch tutorial on this site too.
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