Cobra2

The index-lines I refer to are the (faint) line at cam itself (not the sprocket). Should be like circled in green, mine are close to the red line… The sprockets align (blue circles).

Cams are correct placed, IN/EX marking between lobes. Cams are bolted in similar to picture…  crazy…

Will maybe bolt on a degree-wheel to crank and check…[Read more]

Rear:  (with the magic of mirrors, I could just see the lines pionting up)

Todays conspiracy: How-come even japanese-made feeler-gauges are made of recirculated British steel from early 70’s?

Chinese “quality”..: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GAUo8eUXeU

It was not hot…but warmish…(they should have made a hinge on tank & quick-connects….)

Will do valves as soon as time permit.

Compression-test: 12,5 Bar (F & R)

Regulator is most probably fubar…-get the uprated one…

Side-stand switch seems to be a common trouble-maker.  And I often read advice to cut wires and permanently solder the ends together.

But, having read stories about accidents…where side-stand was forgotten…I just wanted to make a reminder-light.

This circuit on picture should work…if switch works… and will not interfere with ignition-system…

CDi pin-out, as far as my wiring-diagram compares to my bike…:

Chinese Hyosung:
http://www.motoepc.com.ua/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=151

The second wire goes to gnd/chassi.

What is missing from the manual…the correct pin-out for CDi, with correct wiring-colors…

Just quick-tested my wiring, and found that the BROWN wire had 0-ohm to gnd/chassi with support up, infinite, with support down. Clutch-switch also had an impact.

Could not get a reasonable reading thru pickup, shows several M-ohm ???(Green to Blue),…[Read more]

Not to forget; MicroSquirt or similar “diy-efi”-systems…

A 10W fork-oil will also work for most, I use 15W to make the damping slightly harder/slower, (barely notable in my GTR) but it may differ between oil-makes.

(I use MILLERS oils, -when the best is almost good enough…)