Hi there,
I’m currently looking for the difference between the old gen Hyosung gt125r (with the old style fairings) compared to the newer models that have the new fairings and are fuel injected blah blah blah(also which one is easier to upgrade to go faster) . Is anyone able to help since I’ll probably be looking to buy one soon and want to know which one to get. Thanks
Better late than … ever? (Old farts can also have fun on 2 “small” wheels)
I’m Arne, born in the mid 60’s, learned about motorbikes 14-15 years old, “restored” some 50’s old wrecked bikes, before getting my licence, and buying a used 77-78′ Kawa KH-100ES. And at 17, I got a 69/70′ Kawa 500-H1/Mach III in boxes… No problem, I had seen it run, and ALL bits was included. I restored it well, got it complete to my 18 y birthday, but had (over-)spent the budget for upgrading my licence, a car licence had priority. And sold the 500 for getting 4 wheels. If I only knew the price-increase for triples…
Anyway, had fun with Escort, Capri, Cortina/Taunus, Granada, more Capri, a Mustang, and more…but never got around to upgrade to “full” MC-licence. And never really cared about it until a few years ago. But now, it has become ridiculous priced. So, for my very limited use of 2 wheels, (just to cheat toll-roads), I can cope with the 125cc.
But, maybe it has something with weight, or, 4-stroke horsepower must be overrated. In 1980-83, my 100cc 2-stroke (un-restricted) could do 125km/h on flat ground. Any day of the week. And, If I ever came behind a car doing less than 90km/h, I overtook it, also uphill, with passenger. Easy. Try that with a modern 4-stroke “lawnmower” engine…
Before the Hyosung found me, I had a 2014′ Honda Varadero 125, -also large & heavy, but too expensive to modify, down-traded for a 2010’ish Honda Rebel 125, with a 250 engine… utterly useless for any ride longer than 15-20 minutes (for me. Too low seat + seat-shape + would scrape footpegs before the fun started..). I also have a 79/80′ Honda CB125T (twin), undergoing a little resto-mod. (on 4 wheels: 03′ Focus 1,8TDCi Ghia & 89′ MB – 300CE /W124)
The GTR is an “overlayer” – had been standing in a shop, not beeing sold, as a 2017 model. The deal on a “new” bike was too sweet to pass, so it became mine last year, in 2021.
Does anyone have or know where to get a replacement clutch cable for a 2016 model gt125r hyosung? I’m having trouble sourcing one for sale.
thanks
Hello everyone,
I’m hoping someone could shed some light on an issue i’ve run into while working on my son’s bike. Firstly, she won’t start anymore. No crank, just the starter relay clicking. But on the instrument panel I’ve lost the Neutral light, Full beam light and Indicator light but otherwise the guages work and the lcd display works. I’m thinking the CDI unit has died as I tested it last night and got some weird readings and then none from other. Things I’ve recently done to the bike is: Stripped and rebuilt the carbs. Replaced the Magneto/ Rectifier/ Upgraded HT coils/ Ngk laser plugs/ K&N airfilter/ New battery. We bought this bike a few months ago and it has certainly been played with over the yrs! I also checked the Kick stand switch as it has been bypassed but poorly. So reconnected and wrapped with tape. But after spending over £400 already and now my son has his CBT booked next month, I could do with some guidance before the trusty hammer of thor comes out to play!
Hi guys, new here so excuse me if it’s obvious or has been spoken about before.
having charging issues with my Gt125r (carb)so gone to check the stator/magneto, whatever you wanna call it and dropped all my oil.
now the cover has a gasket suggesting it should hold fluid but this is a new one for me so could anyone confirm that for me please?
many thanks,
Chris
After rebuilding and thoroughly cleaning carb after purchasing 2016 gt125r found starting from cold can be a hit or a miss.
Bought and fitted upgraded 3stage yamaha regulator, Hitachi coils, NGK caps and new NGK laser Plat sparks but only resulted in a marginal improvement. BTW The whole choke assembly replaced new as bike dropped…previous owner hence low price.
I also fitted a new lead battery which I notice is only holding 12.7v…What’s your thoughts on fitting a lithium or am I wasting cash ….Wish I could retro fit a kick start.
Cant think of anything else? Any suggestions most welcome.
Andy
Cannot source intake manifolds anywhere…
Well one place at 135 an intake rubber, no thanks
Any help appreciated
Time for an oil change ? …One of the crucial things to stay on top of!
This short tutorial aims to show you how to change your oil with ease on the 125/250 twins (2001-2018) and let’s not forget the filter too!
This applies to: GV125 (01-2018) / GV250 (upto 2018) / GT & GTR 125 (03-2018) inc GT250+R too.
Personally, one of the other twins I own gets its oil changes every 1,000-1500 miles using Ester oils . I’ve been this way for almost 4-5yrs at time of this writing, the manual suggests the oil can be changed at longer intervals. This is optimistic to say the least, so i’ll leave that there. I know too well, oil acts funny around the 1500 mark tops (gearbox, clutch, false N’s, hotter, louder). The internet will send you down a rabbit hole, so my opinion? Use more premium oil marked JASO MA2 , Ester is good. Change around every 1500 tops.
Moving on, let’s prepare the parts & tools first…
| Oil . Get 2x 1L Bottles (Bike needs 1.5L total) |
Oil Filter & O-Rings (don’t skip filters!) |
Drain Pan/Bucket (that can hold 3L+ of fluid.) |
| Torque Wrench (too crucial, you’ll see why below⏬) |
Size 15/17mm Socket (12 sided!)(NO SPANNER) |
Size 10mm Socket / Driver |
Plus these bits also…
Pliers | Funnel | Plastic/Rubber Gloves | Clean Rags/Cloths. | Measuring Jug
1. Okay let’s go, Undo your filler cap first!
For stock caps – use a Pliers to open it (anti-clockwise).
For custom CNC Caps – We use either 19/21mm socket.
2. Go under engine & loosen the drain plug
For GTR owners, use a bar extension to aid you in undoing the drain bolt or just take your fairings off.
This tutorial was done on a Comet that’s all (& it needed a clean!😬)
⚠ Be slow to prevent this plug falling in to the bucket!
Roads are salty, the stock plugs can’t fight off their bad rust. A seized plug will easily round off and you’ll replace more parts in the long run (strainer cap, o ring, bolts😬).
We avoid that by using a made coloured plug that has some weather resistance to it and it’s less prone to seizures.
Plus its magnetic tips are larger to catch those metalic shavings in the oil!
You will find them sold on here….
4. Finished draining? Close the drain-hole!
– Clean up under your engine
– Grab your torque wrench and set it to 15ft lbs max.
– Tighten your drain-bolt until your wrench clicks once.
⛔ DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THIS BOLT.
5. Go to your oil filter cover next!
– Grab 10mm socket & undo the 3 nuts that hold the small cover.
⚠ Oil WILL fall out (leftovers from filter), so place a rag/cloth under the cover and potentially a small pan too. You will see why further down. Wear plastic/rubber gloves too. Ditch your old filter away 🗑
– Clean up your oil filter cover
– Check the spring is still good and not gone soft.
– Change the big o-ring (dress it up in oil first!⛔)
This part needs some more focused attention so we don’t damage the inside hole you’re about to see.
On the picture below, replace the o-ring that is sitting at the back inside the filter area.
⚠ Use a small hook/claw to pry it out , don’t force it. ⚠
CHANGE THE OLD ORING TO A FRESH ONE SUPPLIED.
See the picture below? That’s exactly how it should go in.
The “hole” of your filter goes inside the engine.
9. Close the filter cover!
– Once the filter is in, close the cover.
– Make sure the nuts are tightened to 6 ft lbs max!
🚦 Check the new Cover O-Ring is dressed in oil (a reminder!)
10. Done? Grab your oil (& measuring Jug!)
– Get a measuring Jug and pour inside 1500ml of oil in there (1.5L)
Not less, not more 😉
– No Measuring Jug ? That’s fine, as long as your bottle has volume-markers on it too.
11. Get your Funnel and pour the oil in….
Self explanatory here.
⚠ It’s messy doing an oil change without one, so I dare not digress.
12. Close the oil filler cap!
Self explanatory here.
Just make sure the hole is clean and it’s o-ring isn’t damaged.
– Start the bike and let it idle for less than a minute.⌚
– Switch it off. Let your bike sit upright temporarily⚠
(NO PADDOCKS. Both wheels on the ground)
– Check your sight-glass says “F” and oil level matches it.
– ^ Is your oil higher than “F”mark ? => Drain some.⚠
– ^ Is your oil lower than “L/M” mark => Topup/Refill⛔
– Finally, Check your drain plug is good & secure. 🚦
Questions? Fire away in the comments! 🤺
Hi all
Wondering if anybody might be able to help. I was riding out earlier on my gt125r and the rev counter stopped working, then the lcd panel showing speed and fuel stopped working. However the neutral and indicator lights still light up.
![[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) - Hyosung GV & GT 125/250](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/1.jpg)
⚙ What does this do?
This modification allows the bike to reach better cruising speeds , via the slide needle adjustments. The throttle slide needle is what controls the main jet fuelling as revs go up & down while riding. This also eliminates some of the odd flat spots that happen during the 4k-7k rpm range , commonly on the 125s. In other words, for example if the bike starts to pull at almost full twist throttle , this mod will make it pull with less of a twist. Your bike should run better from 1st to 5th… fuelling wise…
👇 Before we start, This tutorial will assume the following:
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1. Go to the right side of your bike
You will spend most of your time here. Do 1 pot each time.
Make sure you do not get distracted as we are taking out small parts!
2. Unscrew the 1st diaphragm cover
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the diaphragm cover
⚠ You need to disconnect your throttle cable also.
3. Remove the spring & the diaphragm
Once the cover is off, gently remove the piston slide & its spring.
4. Inspect the parts for any debris and clean them.
Use Wynns Carb Cleaner to clean these parts including the diaphragm cover👍
This will stop your slides sticking between revs / gears & scoring to the internal carb walls.
![[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) - Hyosung GV & GT 125/250](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/4c.jpg)
5. Unscrew the plastic plug holding the needle
Use a long good flat blade screwdriver for this and BE GENTLE – ⚠You do not want to damage this plug!
6. Do not forget the order of re-fitting back!
Keep this image in mind, when you refit the needle back. The order of these small bits is crucial too.
![[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) - Hyosung GV & GT 125/250](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/6ad.jpg)
7. Remove the E-Ring (Circlip) on the needle (SLOWLY!)
⚠ This tiny part must be removed gently with a small watchmaker screwdriver only,don’t pull it!
8A. See those 3 grooves on the needle? Read on…
![[Tutorial] How to adjust Carb Slide Needle (Tuning) - Hyosung GV & GT 125/250](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/groove.jpg)
You want your “E-Ring” on the 3rd notch mark like the finished example including the black spacer being pushed back to where it was.
(Lowest groove with pointy end of slide needle facing down. The Factory set-up is usually the 2nd (middle) or top (1st) near the FLAT end of the needle.)
9A. Grab the throttle slide and look for this hole…
Make sure the hole shown in image is clear and proceed to 9B ….
9B. Grab your needle too and follow the image….
9C. Slot the “Needle => first.” & its mini-spring on top.
⚠ Go back to #6 ^ , to remember how the needle spring goes in.
⚠ Remember what was said in 9A & 9B ^
10. Check the needle for free movement (a little bounce back)
Follow the 2 images for instructions/check up…
10B. Dress up the ring of the throttle slide with a temp oily coat.
It is going back to the carb, so you want to make sure the ring of the slide will sit firmly & create a good seal once fitted. This is to help prevent any unwarranted air leaks / external particle trapping.
– Don’t forget to connect back your throttle cable
– Ensure the 4 screws are nice and tight (finger tight)
– Finished? Go open the next cover…
12. Repeat at the rear carb, what you did at the front…
Repeat steps 2 to 11^ on your rear carb.
13. Finished? 🏁 Check your lines before riding…🚦
Final check ups before you start riding , so attention to the following:
Done! this should have been a straightforward process , if you are unsure of something , just comment on this topic. Otherwise, go ride! 🏁
Changing the vacuum Lines on carburetor 125/250 vTwins, should be fairly easy. All you need is 15-30 mins of your time, let’s start with the basics first.
Let’s go now… Strip your fairings down (GTR owners)
(if you have a naked bike, go to next step)
Below is a diagram of how the “AIR LINE” system should be connected.
Study (look at) the diagram images below first , before moving on to the next step….
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VACUUM LINE #1 = CONNECT THE REAR FUEL PUMP FIRST
Got your lines ready?
On the LEFT side of your bike Grab a hose for the fuel pump & follow the next diagram pictures below:
VACUUM LINE #2 = CONNECT YOUR FUEL TANK TAP
* Once your rear fuel pump is connect from the left side.
* Now, move on the the RIGHT SIDE of your bike
* Grab a second vacuum pipe and follow the next diagram images below:
That’s It – Vacuum Setup is done! 🚦
However, if you have an AIS Device (Fake emissions/EGR) then read below!
*Remember above ^ , there is a cartoon diagram of the infamous “EGR DELETE” mod, right ?
*Remove it or block anything that feeds it.
*This image is another example for you.
* Personally, it’s a useless device.
* But, if you want it connected -> replace “blocked” with “connected”
//
I hope this fast toturial was easy to follow, however if you get stuck or need help. Just comment on this post! This tutorial should also help GV owners since they use the same rear pump anyway.
Hi guys, im new to owning a Hyosung and have got a 2016 gt125r that has a lack of power between 4,000 and 8,000 revs. Anybody got any ideas or tips on how to solve this, bike only has 340 miles on the clock and its a bit annoying with having a lack of power. Thanks guys. ☺
My brother have bought a GT125R 2007 rep object very cheep.
Because the previous owner couldn’t get it to start..
I found that the rear coil wasn’t giving spark, so I changed both coils for the upgraded coils.
But I now think it’s the cdi..
do enyone know how to test the cdi?
attaching some photos.
This topic intends to show you how to swap your stock lines to larger uprated braided ones.
(By the way if your STOCK/ORIGINAL fuel lines are 2-4yrs old , you must change them regardless – As per service manual)
Be warned. Chinese fuel lines are very cheap, but why pay twice (don’t last even 1-2yrs) or risk fuel leaks on a hot engine!?
C. 🔧 Tools required:
🚧 DISCLAIMER: THIS SHOULD BE DONE IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA OR OUTDOOR (FUEL VAPOR!)
FOLLOW THIS GUIDE AT YOUR OWN GOOD COMPETENCE & UNDERSTAND THAT CUSTOM PARTS “MAY” VOID YOUR WARRANTY ON NEW BIKES! 🚧
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-pilots.jpg)
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-pilot-1.jpg)
3. Your bike should be exposed like this now
– – Remember, keep the fuel lines nice & straight! – –
– – ANOTHER SHOUT = TIGHTEN CLAMPS TO PREVENT FUEL LEAKS! —
5. A Finished Example = Carb to Pump
6. Ditch your old filter & old lines in the bin!🚮
🚧 NOTE = FUEL MAY SPILL OUT FROM THE OLD FILTER…
{⚠️COVER YOUR ELECTRICS!}
7. Grab your new filter & cut 2 new *short* pipes!
8. Ready? Install the filter to the rear pump!
(Keep the fuel lines nice & short! = No kinks!)
9. Refit your AirBox back on the bike.
10. Last step! Time to fit the tank now.
Go ride the bike! 🏁
1. My filter has low fuel levels in it. Why?
Check that your filter is installed the right direction.
2. The filter looks good , but it is still low in fuel. Do I Top-up?
Top up your tank. Low fuel levels make trips harder.
3. I am getting HIGH Revs on idle, what happened ?
There is an air leak near the airbox or carburetors, so make sure all bolts are tight.
(That also includes metal clamps under the airbox too!)
4. The Airbox is fine, but the revs are still high!
Check your choke lever (it is next to your clutch lever) . To turn off the CHOKE , slide it towards the front tyre.
5. The bike won’t start after changing the fuel lines….?
Check that you connected the pipes the right way & filter is the right direction.
It takes about 2 extra seconds to crank the bike after changing lines.
Here is a hint: when the bike cranks over (starting up), you will see fuel drip in to the filter!
The end!🎲
If you have any questions or get stuck, just reply to this topic. I hope this guide helps you!
Credits 📜:
Images (@Danny.M) // YouTube Video(@Luke.B)
Carb Main Jets one of the most common upgrades to do on these 125/250 carby twins. This tutorial will show you how to swap carb main jets the easy way. #SwapNGo!
First things 1st, if your bike has warranty, consult your dealer before attempting this. This may void warranty on new bikes.
Anyway, Let’s cut to the chase!
0. The tools required:
– Large Mole Grips (& a small one too)
– Philips (+) Star screwdriver – Regular Length
– Philips (+) Star screwdriver – STUBBY LENGTH (Shortie)
– A small amount of cooking oil
– Hex Bits (& screwdriver Bit) (if you have stainless bolts on the carbs)
– 10 or 12mm Spanner or Socket Tool.
– Flat-Head ( – ) screwdriver
1. Whenever you’re ready, unscrew the bolts that hold the side-panels of your bike. Then take off your fairings!
Owners of Naked Bikes = Skip to #2. (GT Comet)
Tip for GTR Owners = Place a rug under the bike, and when your fairings drop to the floor as “ONE piece”. Carefully push one side under the bike, so the whole “one piece” can come out safely off the bike. One Piece means “left/Right Side Panels & Middle Engine fairing attached as one.”
2. Get the tank off the bike next…
* Unscrew #10 (fuel tank bolt) pictured below & lift up the tank “slightly up” so you can see the fuel pipes.
* Disconnect the fuel pipe safely from under your tank (marked in red circle!)
* Don’t forget to also disconnect the “small” vacuum-air hose that is also attached to the tap
(Some GT Naked bikes use a manual tap on/off Tap instead of a vacuum fed tap)
* When the pipes are off, remove the whole tank away from the frame.
(Watch out for item #3 – These rubber things fall out sometimes)
(Save Picture to device to view it much larger)
3. Loosen the airbox clamps
On the LEFT side of your bike, directly under the airbox. Grab a stubby/shorty (+) screwdriver and unscrew loose the 2x clamps on each side of the carb.
They are marked in the red arrow as reference. They are black in colour.
4. Remove the airbox away from the bike.
Take your airbox off & put it aside for now. Jump to #5 next.
* Don’t forget to remove the 2 bolts holding the airbox to the frame!
5. Your bike should now be exposed like this…
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-main.jpg)
6. Next up, let’s loosen the rubber intake clamps…
On the red arrows pointed -> unscrew loose the clamps holding the carburetors down.
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-mainjet90.jpg)
7. Lift up your carbs out of the intake boots (just a little!)
Yes leave everything still connected (cables & pipes)
We still have to drain the fuel out , so jump to #8
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/2hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-mainjet90.jpg)
8. Get a bowl & do this on a VENTILATED area or outdoors! (Fuel Vapor)
* On the red arrows , unscrew these 2 bolts about half-way out.
* Fuel will start dripping down the small pipes under the bolts
(fuel is draining out)
* Grab a bowl or bucket and capture the fuel (watch for spillls!)
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/1hyosung-gt125-carb-gv250-jets-mainjet90.jpg)
9. When the fuel is drained completely…
UnHook the idle-screw adjuster.
* On the left side of your engine, there is a black “hand” screw that controls idle speed.
* Unscrew the STEEL bolt that holds it down (Look at red circle picture)
GT Comet Owners = Skip to #10.
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/3hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
10. Phew…. Let’s remove the float bowls now!
You can do this SIDEWAYS or FLIP the carbs over a bit, as pictured below…
Remove the 8 screws that hold the float bowls down.
* Be warned! = Some original screws can be harder to unscrew loose. So be ready to use some force!
* To be honest, Mikuni should really start using stainless bolts anyway!
11. Struggling? Grab a pair of mole grips!
* When a screw is being difficult to remove with a screwdriver.
* Adjust your mole grips to bite a small bolt head
* Make sure it’s strong enough , so it’s doesn’t slip!
* Bite the bolt head –> Turn left. It should squeek loose.
* When the “bolt” is loose, use your original screwdriver to remove the bolt entirely.
* * * It’s common for these carbs sometimes to have rusty looking screws. * * *
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/5hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
12. Finally, we get to the real thing. Your carb’s undersides should be exposed now!
* Next up , get your “Upgraded” Jets ready!
* Take a 5 min break!
* You are going to swap your standard carb main jets jets for the bigger ones.
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/6hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
Information On Carb Main Jets
Depending on which model 125/250 v-twin , it is important to remember these points:
* Stock GT125 / GT125R & RC = 87.5 Front Main Jet & 90.0 Rear Main Jet
* Stock GT250 / GT250R = 92.5 Front Main Jet & 95 Rear Main Jet
* Stock GV125 Aquila = 87.5 Front Main Jet & 87.5 Rear Main Jet
* Stock GV250 Aquila = 90.0 Front Main Jet & 87.5 Rear Main Jet
All 125 vTwins = Size 15 Pilot Jets (Front & Rear) = Don’t change it.
All 250 vTwins = Size 20 Pilot Jets (Front & Rear) = Don’t change it.
13. Ready? Let’s upgrade!
Swap the front & rear carb main jets for one size up each.
GT125/GT125R = Upgrade to 90 FRONT & 92.5 REAR
GT250/GT250R = Upgrade to 95 FRONT & 97.5 REAR
or
GT250/250R = 95 & 95 ( For Aquila 125/250 = One Size Up each. )
* Okay, see the red circles ?
* Unscrew each jet & replace them with a bigger one.
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/7hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
14. Double check that the jets are secure & tight before closing up!
* Take note! – These jets are brass, so don’t over-tighten them!
* Make sure your carb is also clean from any visible dirt or dust particles.
* The Jet Holes are very tiny! …(So a clean area is a must)
* A Carb Cleaner helps clean up old carb parts & carb main jets !
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/8hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
15. Grab some cooking oil (or old motor oil)
* Drop a “SMALL AMOUNT” of oil on your FINGERS
* Use your fingers to SLIDE OVER the black gaskets…
* Keep doing this until both gaskets have a nice coat of oil-film over them.
![[Tutorial] Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/9hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
16. All done? Time to close everything up,
^ let’s do things in reverse now ^ #12 -> #1…
Start from #12 going back to #1 – Always double check each step you take!
Fit all your parts back together.
17. In the end , this should be the final outcome
![[Tutorial] Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/10hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
![[Tutorial] Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/11hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
18. Install the Fuel-Tank (& also connect pipes!)
* Also, check that all screws are nice & secured such as: 2x Intake Rubber Clamps, 2x Airbox Clamps, Carb-Float Bowl Screws & 2x Carb-Fuel Drain screw closed up too.
* Inspect your throttle cable (Twist your throttle grip to test!)
* Ensure your Choke Line is working (Test your choke = The carb will slide its choke rail!)
* Check your fuel drain cable is AWAY from the engine (zip tie to frame & let it point to ground)
* Lastly, make sure the “ENGINE IDLE” HAND-SCREW is also attached properly
![[Tutorial] Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/12hyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
19. You should now be ready to start!
This quick ten second video was taken, while the bike was still cold & we swapped carb jets.
This 125RC was only 600 miles old, no choke was used.
20. Trouble starting?
* If it doesn’t start the first time around. That means the fuel inside the carbs hasn’t reached “capacity” yet.
* Put the CHOKE lever on max setting (towards YOU)
* Then Crank the bike for about 5-7 seconds (while TWISTING the throttle a few times).
* Then it should fire in to life. Let it idle for few mins to burn off any excess fuel that could have made the spark plugs wet.
Still got some trouble? Get a can of Bradex EASY START – Spray lots of it inside your air filter hole. Now crank the bike again & it should fire this time round!
Factory Troubleshooting Guide for starting issues.
(Save the images to your Device to view it much larger)
![[Tutorial] Carb Main Jets Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/ahyosung-gt125-carb-jets.jpg)
![[Tutorial] Hyosung GT & GT 125/250 - How to swap carburetor Carb Main Jets](https://hyoriders.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/ahyosung-gt125-carb-jetss.jpg)
You should be miles away in to the countryside or your other scenic spot!
I hope this tutorial was easy for you to follow. As always, if you have any questions or feedback, just reply below!
– M
![[Download] GT GTR 125 250 R Comet Service Manual & Hyosung Owners Books](https://i.imgur.com/FDcBjTX.jpg)
This topic will be a special since links will be added & revised over time. So owners of all GT / GTR 125/250 machines can follow this topic anytime.
If you need specific help with these machines, post a New Topic in the “Technical Help” section.
Ok here we go…
CARBY BIKES (Carburatted) 1998 – 2009/2010
OTHER MODELS (HYBRID BIKES) (HALF-NEW SHAPE) & RC NAKEDS
Ei / EFi / Fi BIKES (Electronic Injectors) (Hint = It exhaust pipe has a sensor)
Members of this forum can send write below requests for parts.
In this format:
Bike Details (Age, Year, CC,)
Issues / Part Needed?
You will get a price for your parts, PLEASE SEND ME A “PRIVATE” Message with your “Address” details, so I can calculate shipping costs for you also.
My eBay Shop (for used parts):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/evocrest
PS: As the HyoRiders.club website continues to evolve, rest assured, ordering parts for your motorcycles will be improving. Any suggestions let me know! Stay tuned on this forum 😉
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