Reply To: Bike not starting, electrics not working but cranks
GTR- Side stand switch (bypass it, if not already by wire joins and tape it hard)
- Clutch handle switch (don’t bypass but check the bullet connectors are still intact)
(Temporary bypass may be ok, but not forever, you don’t want to start while gearbox is active and bike drops on the floor even damage the gearbox or starter motor) - Check plugs going to the cdi unit arent cut
M795 GT125 | M815 GT125 | M815 GT250 = These 3 cdi’s are okay to use. - Check the neutral sensor wire behind sprocket cover is still plugged and showing green on the screen.
Next when it is safe to do so, take out a plug and put it back inside the coil CAP , place the pug on the valve cover bolt (silver bolt!!) , then check for sparks when it is cranking over
- Battery should be 12.8-13.4v cold charged and 14BS is the size, smaller capacity batteries tend to annoy charge systems and the bike in general.
Let us know how you get on before we try to dig deeper in to it. Exactly the steps you took above ^ .
If you can’t see your dash lights turn on, check the fuse thats under the pillion seat. It’s 15A size. Then also lift up the dash surrounding unit, be sure water didnt get to the plugs, thats enough to ruin the circuit board on the bike then doesn’t turn on again (sensetive LCD!)
Also check plugs that are under the airbox, you willl see why its crucial to protect the area where water from the front tyre is flicking towards the carb and bounces around your connectors , turning them rusty … contact cleaner helps and then use ACF50 inside every single terminal pin, to soak them and stay protected from road salts even. Hyos really hate caked up plugs and water invastions near electronics. The RC is a little more exposed than the old gen bikes and uses a weaker made loom, so protect it all you can.
// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....
