Reply To: 650 gtr won’t idle and misfiring
Hmmm, fully charge the battery (with a bike charger instead of a car version due to excessive current damage)
Get fresh CR8E plugs , connect them to the HT caps , place them on the “unpainted” part of the engine such as a valve cover bolt, see how good the sparks are ? Incase its not sparking strong enough to start ?
Also these stop sparks = Clutch Handlebar Switch (not recommended to bypass), Stand Switch (if bypassed check contacts again) , Neutral Switch stays “Green” on the dashboard
Also , this sounds stupid, do you hear the fuel pump priming when the key turns on?
Using the “Share Link or Get Public Link” option from either: OneDrive, GoogleDrive, Youtube (upload as UNLISTED!) , DailyMotion or other source to upload some video.
Paste it on the forum here, so we can watch what’s going on ? – Ideally stand on the left side of the bike (where the pump is, so the mic can pick up its priming noise)
But , do #1 & #2 before getting to the end of my comment.
Ps. test your stator & tell us the readings (service manual on this forum) , or if its suspicious, the bike won’t start without a good stator, it is the 1st thing it checks.
ECU primes fuel pump (unless its faulty or some other sensor in the bike is faulty , that means spending a lot of time with service manual to test every electric part you can find with a pocket meter) => Start Button is pressed => Solenoid Clicks to spin the starter motor => Stator Gets flywheel speed & pulses back to ECU => ECU, now does it’s magic to try start the bike assuming all sensors connected to it are saying “We’re good to go” or “not responding / poor response = Error Code / ECU shuts off ignition… This is just a simplistic way i can describe the process but the service manual ofcourse has way more detail in how their EFi system works
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