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North UK

Don’t worry about Stockport, we collect bikes all over but lets save that for last, let see what you can do as your hands are free labour , she might want you first.

i will try not to overwhelm you today, so go for a ride with CR8E plugs,  come back and show us the plug colours for front and rear cylinders , then i can fully understand with a trained eye where your “mixture” situation is and if the bike is overheating or not.

In regards to electronics;

  • If the reg says 14.3V , that is good.  What numbers do you get at idle and what numbers do you get at 5k revs ?
  • We will test the stator soon, (it also is responsible for sparking believe it or not, as the CDI reads the stator’s “coil” to tell when plugs shoud fire up etc, if the stator “coil” wanes, you get dark plugs you see but ….speaking of coil….

Sparking Plug Coil test. (Too easy).

  • Remove the left side cover hiding the coils.
  • Remove HT cap from the spark plugs.
  • Turn on your multi meter.
  • Switch your meter to 20,000 (thousand) OHMS
  • Put the “RED PROBE” inside the  HT Cap
  • Put the “Black PROBE” on the “engine valve cover bolt”  (or any unpainted area of the frame that isn’t rusty)
  • ===== Tell us how much ohms you get front and rear.

Part 2 = Try get a picture of the coils and caps.   I have a suspicion about it , if the owner put CR7 (totally wrong plugs), he probably put wrong coils which emphasizes your cold starting woes (probably!)

Part 3 =  Sparking Coil Test (Primary vs Secondary resistance)

  • Keep your “BLACK PROBE” of the meter on the frame
  • Disconnect the “Signal Wire” That is SPADE Shape   (Front is yellow/black and rear is white/blue)
  • Put the RED PROBE on the “Terminal Connector” of the coil itself.
  • Reduce the meter down to 10  (Ten) Ohms  (As low as you can get)
  • Tell us the ohms for each coil.  I will asdvise them if they within factory spec as per korea’s service limit rules or replace with upgraded ones

In all cases , I would recommend “NGK” caps you saw at this store & Laser Plugs & Ignition Coils = Now you will literally never have to accuse the sparking electronics for letting you down this winter, plus you can do it yourself without needing a garage.  I will provide a tutorial on how to fit caps if need be.   Do not ever buy “CR8EIX (Blue Box IX Plugs)” as Hyosung 125’s generally do not like them and they tend to wanne fast after 5k miles. If want NGK’s best plugs for the street use, it would be their Laser type.
NGK Caps rarely fail, too trusted of a japanese brand at this rate.
OEM Coils = Common, we upgrade them all the time to ones that “resist” less, so bike makes use of them right away.   Can’t blame Hyosung for it as they didn’t make the coils, just outsourced part with their logo stamped on it that’s all. Much like 90% of owners upgrade the stators and regulators and call it a day.


That will finally leave us with the carb and airbox and intake being a special delicate event!

Liqui Moly is good! – Don’t use redex though, if you want to try “prolong” the idea of taking off the airbox and carb cleaning (ie, you need the bike for work during the week i guess) , go to Halfords and get this  only



Regardless if you have half tank or full tank,  pour the entire bottle in.   (Aggressive method perharps? but follow me here…)
Your bike’s mood should improve slightly or more as it drinks down its fuel , the cleaner will collect stuff long the lines, pump, tap, carb unit, and it burns away from exhaust.  This is the product i use on all my bikes, usually once every few months  (well some pumps at the stations are not all perfect) , good thing we also have fuel filters, so keep an eye on that fuel filter for gunk build up.   Remember we want to fix the easy parts of the bike because the “carb & airbox” will be one of the most “patience” testing things you could do but boy you will learn a lot and it will thank you ten fold.  (Even if we have to remove them to access the intake manifold orings under the cylinder heads)


// Meditation doesn't mean you have to sit still....